How does the world’s largest cosmetics company, L’Oréal, approach packaging sustainability? We talked with Erik Troost, the company’s Sustainability Program Lead, to learn more about its perspective on recyclability, material preferences, refillable packaging, and much more.
I’d like to begin by asking if you could give us a broad summary of L’Oréal’s packaging sustainability objectives and goals in Europe.
At L’Oréal we have formulated a set of environmental and social commitments for 2030 under our global ‘L’Oréal for the Future’ sustainability program, which we have launched in 2020 and set in accordance with the Science-Based Targets initiative. Of these commitments, four are directly linked to improving the sustainability of our packaging.
For example, we have pledged that 100% of the plastic used in our packaging will be from either recycled or biobased sources. We will also reduce by 20% in intensity the quantity of packaging used for our products, compared to 2019, and make sure that 100% of the biobased ingredients for formulas and packaging materials will be traceable and will come from sustainable sources.
Could you provide an update on the progress the company has made so far? Have there been any particularly noteworthy projects or initiatives that have significantly influenced L’Oréal’s pursuit of its objectives?
In terms of results, we can report that, in 2022, 26% of the plastic used in our packaging came from recycled or biobased sources and that 78% of the volume of PET used by the Group worldwide came from recycled sources. Also, 92% of our biobased ingredients for formulas and packaging materials was traceable and came from sustainable sources.
To achieve these results, it is first worth mentioning that we have an approach that engages our full business ecosystem, within and beyond our value chain. From supplier to retailer and consumer. We are engaging at all levels in order to attain results together.
When looking at packaging specifically, we continuously improve and develop our solutions either during the product development stage by driving the usage of new and improved generations of packaging or by using new material sources through cooperation with start-ups like Carbios, a company that has developed an enzymatic recycling process used to depolymerize PET.
This innovation allows the production of 100% recycled and 100% recyclable PET products, without loss of quality. With this type of cooperation, we are promoting the use of recyclable PET, avoiding the use of virgin material, and boosting the circular economy. Another development with the potential to have significant impact comes from our refill and recharge categories. Lowering packaging intensity and saving on material will help drive our sustainability objectives.
I’m curious about your perspective on the EU’s proposed revisions to the Packaging and Packaging Waste Directive, as they have sparked considerable discussion within our industry. How do you anticipate these proposals will impact L’Oréal’s operations and what are your thoughts on the matter?
The review of the Packaging and Packaging Waste Directive is a critical opportunity to reach the objectives of the EU Green Deal for a circular economy that benefits consumers and businesses. At L’Oréal we are committed to use innovation as a way of making beauty more sustainable.
We strongly believe that companies can be part of the solution to the challenges the world is facing. Investments in sorting, collecting, and recycling facilities across the EU are necessary to complement our efforts in designing more sustainable products. Packaging which is designed to be recyclable will only be recycled in practice and at scale once the infrastructure is in place.
We support the PPWR approach based on the three Rs: reduce, reuse, and recycle. Incentivising the use of secondary raw materials and reducing the use of virgin materials in new packaging is key. We believe that legislative measures should be based on a favourable multi-criteria Life Cycle Analysis (e.g., choice of material, format) to ensure that the impact of packaging on the environment is reduced.
We welcome the European Commission’s efforts to foster harmonization and reduce fragmentation of the internal market by proposing a regulation with a full internal market legal basis (Article 114 TFEU). These should be preserved and the final text of the PPWR should be as clear as possible to ensure harmonization across the EU.
Could you provide insight into L’Oréal’s preferences in terms of material? We are interested to know if the company has a preference for plastic, paper, bioplastics etc., or maintains a neutral position on this issue.
The packaging materials we use are defined by several factors. First and foremost, we aim to secure the quality and performance of the product and formulation inside. Second, we want to improve recyclability and third make sure we source materials sustainably. This means we use a broad range of materials to answer those requirements and our preference will vary depending on the product.
When looking specifically at plastics, it is worth mentioning that we have introduced PCR PET for the bottles in our rinse-off product category, with 78% PET coming from recycled sources in 2022. Another example comes from the paper and cardboard we use in our packaging which is 100% FSC certified.
The common ground within our material strategy is to strive for the ongoing development and constant innovation of our packaging solutions.
What is L’Oréal’s position on reusable packaging, and what do you think the FMCG sector could do to make the use of it more widespread?
Reusable packaging, or as we call it ‘refill and recharge’ formats, is an essential part of our sustainable packaging development strategy. For example, we know that using refill pouches can lower plastic usage by up to 81% and help drop packaging intensity by as much as 70%.
The main challenge lies with the adoption rate and the upgrading of consumer habits. This is why empowering our business ecosystem plays a pivotal role within our ‘L’Oréal for the Future’ strategy. By engaging with our retailers and with consumers, we aim to drive this category of products which in turn will help us promote more responsible consumption.
What can we expect from L’Oréal’s packaging strategy heading into the future? Are there any trends that you expect to become more prevalent in the coming years?
Our ongoing focus is to achieve the results we commit to in our L’Oréal for the Future program. To do so, we will keep on developing our packaging strategy in several ways. For example, the Group is investing €50 million to finance projects that will help promote a more circular economy through the Circular Innovation Fund. Circularity is an essential requirement if we want to close the loop and move away from a take, make, waste economy.
Next, is to keep on developing refills and recharges, which allow us to lower both our packaging intensity and material usage at the same time. And finally, we will keep innovating and investing in new technologies and materials that improve recyclability by, for example, promoting the usage of mono-materials. By doing so we move away from the usage of virgin materials and promote recycled material sources, which in turn boost circularity.
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